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Thread: How to perform a "quick winterization" (Marine Power engine)

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    997
    Boat
    2007 22ve
    Follow that upstream and you’ll run into the transmission cooler. I remove the hose off the back of it there because there is a screen built into it that needs to be cleaned off periodically. Also the hose that leads out of it into the impeller housing can hold a bit of water so I push it up to drain that too.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    219
    Boat
    2005 22v
    I also like to take a piece of stiff wire and probe in the block drain holes. Sometimes sediment can accumulate and keep all the water from draining out which is no bueno.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    139
    Boat
    2007 22VE
    Hey Guys,

    Wanted to respond in this thread to keep the relevance up. Great guide. On the transmission cooler drain - In the below picture I think the Transmission cooler is to the left, and the white canister/filter housing to the right.. Is this where you are pulling the host to drain? Or, to the left of the cooler? (Other side of engine mount, not pictured). Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. (For reference, this is starboard side, directly under the knock sensor and oil filter)

    CoolingHose.jpg

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mount Juliet, TN
    Posts
    2,632
    Boat
    Tigé
    Pull the hose off between the cooler and the water filter.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    139
    Boat
    2007 22VE
    Got you. So the hose clamp connection to the white tee in the picture above.

    Consider it pulled.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,191
    Boat
    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, Tablet Helm, and Ultra-Ballast; LOTS more technology in development!
    Suggestion: You may find it easier to pull the hose off the intercooler instead of the filter. The filter appears to have a Sch80 plastic hose barb, which have very aggressive barbs that make it extremely difficult to remove the hose without damaging the hose, the barb, or both. Meanwhile, the intercooler is likely metal and may only have a single "rib" toward the end of its hose fitting, and its hose clamp cinches down between this "rib" and the body of the intercooler. I've found it much easier to remove that hose clamp and then slide the hose off the intercooler with no damage to anything.

    I've actually stopped removing hoses from those Sch80 barbs. Now I just carefully slit the hose along the barbs, peel it away, and use new hose. Another good reason to open a different connection if one is available, and in this case one is just inches away.

    Once you have the hose disconnected, remember to use a shopvac and suck on both the open end of the intercooler and the open end of the hose. Do this after you've removed the raw water pump and opened the V-drive drain plug so there is a path for air to flow into the portion of the system you're vacuuming. It's remarkable how much extra water you can pull out this way.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    139
    Boat
    2007 22VE
    That's good advice. Honestly, that water strainer looke like it has PVC twist releases on the T Junction. Part of me wonders if you couldnt remove the basket and turn the whole fixture upside down? It may tighten one and loosen the other which would cause an issue..

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    4,191
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    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, Tablet Helm, and Ultra-Ballast; LOTS more technology in development!
    Quote Originally Posted by BrentP View Post
    That's good advice. Honestly, that water strainer looke like it has PVC twist releases on the T Junction. Part of me wonders if you couldnt remove the basket and turn the whole fixture upside down? It may tighten one and loosen the other which would cause an issue..
    I doubt there's clearance under the hose for the canister. He'd probably have to lengthen at least one of the hoses. I did think it was weird to have the filter mounted there, and in that orientation. Generally they're mounted high on the rear seatback to reduce syphoning and to make it easier to clean the filter inside the canister. Where this is mounted it doesn't provide any filter protection for the V-drive (if his boat has one). Granted the V-drive is a large bore cooling passage but still - why not have the filter be the first thing in the circuit?

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    139
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    2007 22VE
    You think that filter was added after production?

  10. #70
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    Jan 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrentP View Post
    You think that filter was added after production?
    Yes

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    4,191
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    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, Tablet Helm, and Ultra-Ballast; LOTS more technology in development!
    Quote Originally Posted by BrentP View Post
    You think that filter was added after production?
    That would be my guess. I've never seen one installed in such a location, nor upside down, and I don't think Tige would have done either of those things at the factory. You kinda want the filter "basket" oriented normally so sediment tends to settle at the bottom of the filter, rather than settling on the water input/output openings in the cap. That's almost asking for blockage of your cooling system.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC
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    51
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    28,353
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    I dont think it was an option for a 340.
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  13. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    139
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    2007 22VE
    I wonder why then.. is it a known issue if you don't have it? Trying to understand the logic there.

  14. #74
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    PO could have boated in trashy water and the strainer will catch small debris before it enters the engine.

  15. as for me it was a very bad idea to pull out the hose. And let the water run. Because of the fact that there is a dense cover it holds all that flow of water. I would in your https://cbdhungerlab.com 
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