Hole in dash, and looking for pictures of a transducer?

[Waterski-Rebel]

I just ordered a Humminbird depth finder, and was wondering if someone (hopfully with a 20V) could post some pictures of where their transducer is mounted, to give me an idea of where I should put mine.

Also, I will need to cut a hole in my dash for the gauge. Does anyone have any suggestions? (other then use a hole saw). :)

[chpthril]

Hole saw is the best way. :02:

[Waterski-Rebel]

Is there anything I should do to protect the (plastic) dash? Do I cover it with tape first or ???

[chpthril]

Is there anything I should do to protect the (plastic) dash? Do I cover it with tape first or ???

Put Blue painter's tape where you want to drill. Mark your hole on the tape. Triple check behind the dash, and drill. Go slow with light pressure till you're through the dash and into the f/g behind (if any). Oh, double check the hole saw dia. before drilling.

A Roto-zip will cut just as good, but it will be free hand and most gauges dont have much of a lip to hide mistakes

[Waterski-Rebel]

Thanks! Now I just need the depth finder to show up, and also need a pic or two of where to put the transducer.

[chpthril]

Thanks! Now I just need the depth finder to show up, and also need a pic or two of where to put the transducer.

Transom? thru-hull? or hockey puck style?

[Waterski-Rebel]

Hockey puck, through hull style - Humminbird 610P

[chpthril]

I'd say glue it to the sb side about 6" up from the keel, below the engine bell-housing.

[dogbert]

Put Blue painter's tape where you want to drill. Mark your hole on the tape. Triple check behind the dash, and drill. Go slow with light pressure till you're through the dash and into the f/g behind (if any). Oh, double check the hole saw dia. before drilling.

A Roto-zip will cut just as good, but it will be free hand and most gauges dont have much of a lip to hide mistakes

The hole saw is the best, but be sure to buy a bimetal one. Also, start it in reverse until you have a decent groove and the finish won't flake off due to the jumping you get when you first start cutting. And, as chpthril said, cover the surface with blue painter's tape or masking tape.

[dogbert]

Here's a picture of mine surface mounted. You can't see them real clear, but it's the gauge all the way over to the right, next to the breakers.

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1141&d=1154879892

[Waterski-Rebel]

The reverse is a good idea. What happens if my bit is just a wood bit?

Also, when I install my bow speakers, do I follow the same process?

[dogbert]

The reverse is a good idea. What happens if my bit is just a wood bit?

Also, when I install my bow speakers, do I follow the same process?

A bi-metal hole saw will have finer teeth and be less likely to jump and chip. Yes to the bow speaker process.

[Waterski-Rebel]

I will look tonight and see what type my set is. Hopfully they are bi-metal.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Ok, I am home and looked. It didn't say if they are bi-metal or not. They are black, and I bought the set from eBay. My guess is they are basic hole saws. I do remember that they were good for both metal and wood, because I bought them to cut a circle in a metal computer rack. I will see if I can find a bi-metal one to borrow (or buy). I'm only going through the thin plastic that they used for the dash in the SwitchV, so it should be pretty simple. The holes for the speakers will be a little more complicated.

chpthril - I missed your post above "I'd say glue it to the sb side about 6" up from the keel, below the engine bell-housing." For a non-mechanic, what/where is the bell-housing? :) I understand 6" from the keel, and on the starboard side, just not sure what part of the motor is the bell housing.

[chpthril]

Thats where the trany bolts to the block. That puts the puck about 3' from the transom.

[Waterski-Rebel]

Gotcha - 3 feet from the back, and 6" off of center. Thanks!

[dogbert]

The speaker holes require a 5" hole. You should be able to find that at Home Depot (I know, I looked). As for the other hole saws you already own, if it said it was good for wood or metal, than it's bi-metal, so you should be good. The teeth will be smaller and closer together than the wood version.

Also, you could also be going through the fiberglass beneath the dash panel.

Watch for wires beneath the fiberglass. :eek:

[Waterski-Rebel]

I poked my head under there, and I'm pretty sure I am safe, and just going though the plastic. I have woried about hitting a wire, I will take it slow.

The hole saw teeth look 1/2 way between wood and metal, they are smaller then wood teeth, but not as small as metal teeth. I am compairing it to my sawzaw blades. The teeth also jump back and forth. Although the original package said it was good for metal and wood, I wonder if it was wrong. I did buy it off of ebay, and it does have 15 or so different sizes. I think the set was less then $20 too. (pretty cheap, so who knows if it really is what it said it was).

[dogbert]

You can get it for less at Home Despot.

[Waterski-Rebel]

No $hit? I thought a set with that many different sizes would have cost close to $100 at Home Depot. If that's the case, I will just buy a new set.

[spharis]

Another good spot is parallel to the raw water intake on the starboard side.

And like already mentioned, go in reverse on the dash. Type of saw doesn't matter too much, as long as you test drill in a piece of scrap to make sure it fits first.

[dogbert]

Don't buy the whole set, just the one that you need. I'll take a picture of both my PerfectPass thru hull location and my transducer this weekend.

[Waterski-Rebel]

I just took a pic of my boat. I didn't see the fresh water intake, I assume if I pull out the wall that goes between the motor and the storage I would be able to see it. Reguardless, it looks like I should probably put the puck in spot "A" on the pic. "B" looks like it would be eaiser to get to, by the gas tank, but "A" shouldn't be that difficult.

Is "A" where you guys were talking about?

Dogbert - I think my holesaw set will do just fine for the plastic on the dash. I will go backwards, and do the tape thing. I don't think I have a 5" one, so I will make sure I buy a bi-metal one in that size.

[dogbert]

Yes, that's approximately where I have mine. Also, if you follow the hose back from point B, you'll find your raw water intake.

[Waterski-Rebel]

So, does the raw water hit the tranny first, then the motor?

Also, do I need to put the transceiver in a bag of water first like the instructions say, or am I good to glue it in place? It seems as if everyone else has theirs there, I should be safe.

[spharis]

Sort of. There are usually cooling taps for the tranny on the intake hose. The engine gets the lions share though.

Just glue it in a known location with some non-bubbling epoxy.

[Waterski-Rebel]

spharis - thanks! When it shows up, I'll put it where "A" is and glue it down.

[whitlock87]

I have a 2004 switch V, here are some pics of my setup.

[whitlock87]

You will have to drill down about 1/4" before mounting the sensor.
This is to set the angel.

[Waterski-Rebel]

whitlock87 - Thanks for the pics. When you say "sensor" do you mean transducer or gauge, or is there something else other then the two? Also, when the hole was made for teh gauge, did you just go though the platsic dash, or did you have to go through any fiberglass?

[spharis]

You can get away without sanding to make it flat. You shouldn't have enough rise on your hull to matter.

[whitlock87]

The sensor is the transducer, (Last pic)

tige water sports installed it for me, when i bought the baot.