rube with a used Tige'

[cjromero77]

Alright, I know nothing about boats and am learning fast. (for those concerned, I am reading and will take the safety class)

Right now, I'm trying to figure out where the drain plug in the hull near the engine housing exists. Supposedly there is a T-bar on the plug. The boat has a plug, but not a T-bar. It is not male, but female and looks like it needs a square insert to screw it out. Is this the correct drain plug. Also, I do have a spare plug that has a T-bar. It has a threaded rubber casing. I was told this was the spare, and that there should be another T-bar plug. Didn't find it. However, this plug looks like it lines up with hole under the hull.

Also, I tried running the engine by running water through a hose connection under the hull. However, I couldn't get any suction to run water. I cut the engine off immediately to prevent damage of course. But I can't figure out what I was doing wrong with the cup.

If anyone has input, I'd appreciate it. Pics would definitely help. I'd post some, but I don't have a digital camera yet. Between the boat and house I just bought, no money left.

thanks,
Chris

[cjromero77]

Just to clarify.... The plug I found in the engine casing, looks like it lines up with the hole under the hull (which is plugged).

Hope I explained this right!

[cjromero77]

Oh yeah...boat is a 2100i 1999

[pbellew]

There are 2 plugs. Open the engine cover and right in front of the engine you'll see where the T-handle plug goes. The plug with the square end goes in back of the boat. I also own a 1999 2100i

[whitlock87]

Not sure about your plug, but it should be a 1/2npt Male (threads on the out side)

:confused:

As far as running the engine out of the water, you need a fake-a- lake connected to the bottom of the boat. (Water will be spilling out between the boat and the fake-o-lake)
After you start you engine, you should see water coming out of your Exhaust.
Do not run the engine at high RPM’s while connected to the fake-a-lake. It is just for running the engine at an idle for testing and warming up. You will not get enough water flow to handle the high RPM’s for any length of time.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=32740

Good Luck, and have fun with your new boat
David

[TeamAllen]

Here is a picture of the plug in the rear. I have seen some info. about making a fake-a-lake out of a toilet plunger and a PVC hose adapter. I'll see if I can locate it.

[cjromero77]

I had no problem locating the plug in the rear (with the square). The problem is with the one in the engine. From the input, I think I've located it. However, there is no T-plug placed in it. It looks like a brass plug with a square insert. When I look down under the hull, it looks like this thing is screwed in almost to the bottom of the hull.

Everyone I talk to is consistent with the description and location. The only thing I'm not seeing is a T-plug in there, but the plug I described. I wasn't sure why there was a different type of plug in here or if I was looking in the wrong place. I'm definitely looking in the correct area.

As far as the equipment to flush (fake a lake), I have something similar. I think the problem may just be I didn't set it quiet flush enough for suction to grab. I'll try it again next week.

[TeamAllen]

This is what the T-plug looks like. It is a tapered fit, so it doesn't go all the way through.

[gjensen1]

As far as the equipment to flush (fake a lake), I have something similar. I think the problem may just be I didn't set it quiet flush enough for suction to grab. I'll try it again next week.
the Fake a lake does NOT stay up there with suction.. you have to make sure is pressing against the Hull intake with the water running ans the boat NOT started...

then you can start your boat

[cjromero77]

Now I'm confused. The digital image posted by TEamallen is nothing like anything I have near the engine or as a spare part. If anyone has digital images of the plug in the front of the engine and where the plug drains (under the hull) I'd appreciate it.

I have not been out to the boat since last I posted, so I will try to get images myself to post.

Thanks

[cjromero77]

Sorry, I need to clarify again.

The second image (the one with the T-plug) posted by TeamAllen is the one I'm having a problem with. The image submitted by TeamAllen of the plug in the rear is the same.

Thanks TeamAllen

(see.... I am a rube):rolleyes:

[TeamAllen]

I'm glad I could help. Here is a picture I found on the web. I think the boat is a MasterCraft, but it doesn't matter. That picture I posted of the T plug, should be located, in the threaded hole, where I drawed the red arrow, on the picture. Any plug with the proper threads will work, but the T plug is what it comes with. I'm sure you can buy one if the boat doesn't have one.

[whitlock87]

Ok I got a stupid question
Why is there a plug in the hull of the boat in that location?
I have a V drive, and the only plug I have is in the back.

Thanks for the insight
David

[TeamAllen]

In a direct drive that is the absolute lowest point in the boat. I have a stupid question for you. Where is the bilge pumplocated in a V-drive? Just wondering.

[whitlock87]

On a V drive, the bilge is against the back in the left corner.
There needs to be about 3 gallons of water in the boat before the bilge comes on.
After skiing, you need to raise the tong of the trailer to be about 4 feet in the air to drain the boat( this is a pain, but it beats the smell if you do not do it ).

[dogbert]

My V drive has the T plug right below the v drive (in front of the engine). It's pretty much right next to the bilge pump. It appears to be the lowest part of the bilge.

[TeamAllen]

Maybe your boat has a tplug as well and you never knew it. That would save you from raising the trailer tongue up so high?

[Ruune]

not on a V-drive (well not on my 22v anyways). Luckily enough, I have a private launch w/ an incline, and I pull the plug immediately after the boat comes out of the water. Dry off the outside, and then put the plug back in. :D

[whitlock87]

I will check, but I have waxed the boat several times, and I cannot think of any holes on the bottom other then the water pickup.
But it would be nice not to raise the tong that high, as the jack is to short.
You have to raise the jack all the way, place blocks under the tong and lower the jack in order to get some blocks under the wheel of the jack.

If I do not have one, can I add one?

David

[Original Wing Nut]

I always pull the plug on my vdrive a couple of feet out of the water. I always pull just out of the water and walk all the way around, look things over, pull the plug, then pull all the way to the top of the ramp.

[Ruune]

assuming you're using a floor jack, use a block between the jack and the trailer. Then move the jack further back, towards the axles. This will increase the height of the tongUE. :)

[whitlock87]

Wing nut
I know you have a newer Tige 24V
Do you have a plug in the bottom of your boat, or just the main drain at the back?

My boat is a 2004 Switch, and I think I only have the main drain.

[TeamAllen]

Good advice OWN! Here is link if you don't already have one and want to add a T plug.

Discount Inboard Marine (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=250)

[Original Wing Nut]

The 2005 24V has just the main drain, just abor the taps.

[whitlock87]

I feel lame,
I have been using the trailer jack to get it off the hitch, and then I would raise it all the way and lower it a little on to a jack Stand (At the tong).
I then would lower the trailer jack (raise the wheel) and place 3 blocks under it.
I then would use the trail jack to raise it up again (off the jack stand).

I have about 4 different hydro jacks in my garage. I think I am going to dedicate one to the boat

Thanks David
:eek:

[dogbert]

Mine's a '99 2100v Ltd

[Ruune]

My dad surprised me one day last summer with a 5-ton floor jack that he picked up at costco. Needless to say its overkill, but I dedicated it to the boat.

[rpaxton]

Originally posted by TeamAllen
This is what the T-plug looks like. It is a tapered fit, so it doesn't go all the way through.

TeamAllen,

I understand that the T-plug is tapered and is not INTENDED to go all the way through? About how far should it go into the drain. I have a 2000 22i and I am doing good to get about 2.5 turns into the drain. We have been getting some water in the boat and thought that the T-plug was leaking.

Rodg

[TeamAllen]

Rodg,

I would say 2.5 turns is probably about right. It's not much. I hardly ever take the plug out. The boat stays dry. I would think the water is coming from somewhere else. How much water are we talking about?

Obviously any water taken on over the bow, or by everybody getting inside the boat from the swimstep will add water. The cooler below the passenger seat used to leak, until I sealed the drain with caulking. That drains right into the bilge, so if it leaks you will have water in the bilge. Check all the hose fittings and connections. The exhaust manifolds are water jacketed and if cracked will leak. And the last thing I can think of is where the prop shaft goes through the hull. I don't know anything about that one. oh yeah ... maybe the perfect pass wheel if you have one. I don't.

I bet there is a thread on this somewhere? I guess you have to determine if it fills up sitting there with or without the engine running.

[rpaxton]

TeamAllen,

I made a run this week and was very careful to keep water from coming over the bow. We only boated for about 2 hours, but the bilge was almost completely dry, maybe an inch or two of water. I figure the leak, if any, is probably coming from the prop shaft. I know that they tend to leak over time and eventually need the packing replaced.

Thanks for the help!

Rodg

[TeamAllen]

rpaxton - good job of investigating the source. I don't know anything about the prop shaft seal. Let me know what you learn and I'll take a closer look at mine. Hopefully you got some riding in during your 2 hour session.

[rpaxton]

TeamAllen,

I will definately let you know about the propeller shaft seal. The first problem is getting to it. It looks like I will have to pull a service panel up from behind the engine compartment, which means disassembeling the back portion of the boat. :(

We definately got some good ridding in that 2 hours. In Texas the lakes get smooth as glass after about 5ish. It is the best time to ride, but only gives you 2 - 3 hours of lake time.

Rodger

[TeamAllen]

Don't you just have to remove the back seat to get that rear panel out?

[rpaxton]

I know that the two hinges holding the engine hatch are attached to that cover. They have to be removed, and possibly the engine housing. Lift the back seats out and I am hoping that it should slide out. Some of the hatch is partially covered by the rear bulkhead, but I am thinking that is less than 1/2 an inch. It will probably slide out at an angle. This should give access to the packing gland.

There should be a bolt or something on the top of the gland that can be tightened to put more pressure on the packing and make it "more" water tight. I will probably wait until the end of the season, mid October, before I get too involved in this one.

Rodg

[TeamAllen]

Good idea! Sounds like it's not too bad. I'll check mine out as well.