2009 RZ2 aftermarket ballast install

[kerlee]

FYI,
I took my seat and floor out today to fix a siphon issue with the stock ballast and thought I would take a picture of the aftermarket install done this last winter. The 4 red pumps are the stock ballast pumps. 2 fill the front sacs and 2 fill the back sac. The front sac is horseshoe shaped but each leg has its own fill and empty pump. The white tsunami pumps are for the after market add on v-drive locker ballast sacs. As you can see the installer just added a brass tee to the existing cut-off valves, thereby avoiding another hole in the hull. Since we typically surf on the port side the installer did not tee the additional port pump on the stock port pump, he tee'd it off one of the front pumps. Therefore I can fill both port sacs at the same time as they are using different inlets and not competing with each other for flow through one inlet. The starboard aftermarket pump shares the inlet with stock starboard pump. Hope this pic helps anybody wanting to install aftermarket ballast.
20279

[Ks]

Thank you for posting! I just forwarded this to my dealer... How much did your dealer charge you to do that?

Thanks in advance

[chpthril]

That is a great idea! Doesnt look at crowded as it would sound if you were trying to describe.

[Ewok]

What about running a fill line for aftermarket surf sacs from the vent line of the factory sacs and then running a new vent line from the surf sac to the factory through hull? I guess it would take a little longer to fill but it might be an easier install.

Also, what did you use to reenforce the floor in the locker? I noticed there is a warning label that says max weight 80 lbs.

[kerlee]

I think you could do a fill line from the stock ballast but it would take a long time to fill and empty or you would have to wire a separate empty pump.
I saw the 80lbs label and asked around and checked the forums and the off record answer was that it would be okay. I have stood in my v drive locker and it was fine. The weight is distributed all over the floor.

[Ewok]

I think you could do a fill line from the stock ballast but it would take a long time to fill and empty or you would have to wire a separate empty pump.
I saw the 80lbs label and asked around and checked the forums and the off record answer was that it would be okay. I have stood in my v drive locker and it was fine. The weight is distributed all over the floor.

I didn't think about the drain, I guess it would need a seperate drain pump and plumbing. Did your install involve additional through-hull drain ports or were you able to tie into the factory drain holes?

I saw the 80 lbs warning when I changed out the battery, I stood on the edges of the locker floor, the middle felt a little squishy, I noticed on ragboys pictures of his build that there is a stronger looking floor panel for the floor there and it's supported on the sides by a ledge on the gunwale and engine mount. I figured I'd lay a piece of marine plywood with some reenforceing 1x2's to help carry some of the weight but if you haven't had any issues i might not worry about it.

[kerlee]

no additional thru-hulls were drilled.
the vent and drain holes were tee'd right before the outlets in the hull. If you decide to go through with it you will probably need to put a check valve in both the drain lines. You don't need check valves in the vent lines or the sacs won't collapse or in-stock won't drain. Gunnells marine in greenwood did my install. Joe was the mechanic that did the install, he ordered 3 way switches for fill and empty of the additional sacs. I can take pics of the dashboard if you like. I figured if I was going to go to all the trouble of getting it wired up and plumbed then I was going to do it all the way. With separate switches for the additional ballast, I can choose which sacs I want to fill or empty. I got the ballast stuff from wakemakers, Jason has a pretty good knowledge of plumbing ballasts, what works and what does not work. I got my custom sacs from chpthrl. The reason I had to pull the floor out was that my front stock sacs was emptying and my stock starboard sac would not fill because of a fluid lock even though we had a high loop in them, so I had to put an anti-siphon valve in

[Guapo]

Thanks for the pics. I've already installed my additional ballast and pumps (dealer did it). I did add through hulls and made it completely separate. Those pics are nice as it lets me see how things really are under there. I'm not too excited about the possibility of having to change an impellar or anything else out of those stock pumps with the way they are sandwiched under the floor.

[Duncan]

What about running a fill line for aftermarket surf sacs from the vent line of the factory sacs and then running a new vent line from the surf sac to the factory through hull? I guess it would take a little longer to fill but it might be an easier install.

Also, what did you use to reenforce the floor in the locker? I noticed there is a warning label that says max weight 80 lbs.

Tige factory has reportedly played around with adding a locker sack plumbed into the port on top of the factory ballast tank. Your dealer could probably get more info.

But this is going to be slower than having another pump running in parallel.

[chpthril]

Tige factory has reportedly played around with adding a locker sack plumbed into the port on top of the factory ballast tank. Your dealer could probably get more info.

But this is going to be slower than having another pump running in parallel.

It's the 2010 Surf and Pro ballast option :ro:

3rd pic down shows Ragboy's during construction

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showpost.php?p=428318&postcount=65

Here's one showing the system with the false floor in.

[ImaPigDog]

Tige factory has reportedly played around with adding a locker sack plumbed into the port on top of the factory ballast tank. Your dealer could probably get more info.

But this is going to be slower than having another pump running in parallel.
Already doing it with the 2010 Pro Ballast option.

We swapped out the factory 350 lb. sacs with one 750 lb. (starboard) and one 1100 lb. (port) and it works great. Obviously, neither sac fills completely but I estimate that I get about 650 lb. in them.

I believe that Ragboy timed the filling/draining on the RZ2 review he did and if I recall it was about 9 minutes to go from one side to the other. I haven't timed it before and after we swapped out the sacs but the time difference is negligible (close enough that I haven't bothered adjusting the timers).

[kerlee]

I looked at trading up from my 2009 to a 2010 for the tige touch and additional ballast, but I am pretty sure my wife would have killed me. it was cheaper to forego the tige touch and add the 2 extra sacs which weight about 576 each. the stock ballast weighs about 900 ( 250 in each locker and 400 in the front). the add on ballast at 576 each give me a total of 2000lbs roughly, (825 lb now on each side and 400 still in the front)

[Duncan]

It's the 2010 Surf and Pro ballast option :ro:

Yeah, I know that is the case for the 2010. But I was referring to the plumbing in the 2009 -- the same or similar fittings are available at the top of the internal rear tank of a 2009 RZ2.

[chpthril]

Yeah, I know that is the case for the 2010. But I was referring to the plumbing in the 2009 -- the same or similar fittings are available at the top of the internal rear tank of a 2009 RZ2.

Gotcha. Adding a sac in on an 09 with the in-floor is fairly simple, and can be done with out drilling any extra holes. Except maybe in the false floor for rerouting of the hose.

[Guapo]

Gotcha. Adding a sac in on an 09 with the in-floor is fairly simple, and can be done with out drilling any extra holes. Except maybe in the false floor for rerouting of the hose.

Mike...with the new sac I'll have shortly. You mentioned that I'll need to re-route my supply line to the rear of the locker (as it's now in the front of the locker). In doing this, I will have to drill a hole in either the floor or the panel that separates the engine from the locker (which would seem easier). Does that sound right? Also, how do you drill those in the walls and floor with carpet on them...doesn't the hole saw "snag" on the carpet?

[ImaPigDog]

Mike...with the new sac I'll have shortly. You mentioned that I'll need to re-route my supply line to the rear of the locker (as it's now in the front of the locker). In doing this, I will have to drill a hole in either the floor or the panel that separates the engine from the locker (which would seem easier). Does that sound right? Also, how do you drill those in the walls and floor with carpet on them...doesn't the hole saw "snag" on the carpet?
David,

We can take a look at our boat at the reunion and get some ideas.

When the carpet "snags" on the hole saw, then Mike pulls out the sabre saw!

[kerlee]

i drilled some holes in the back wall of my v drive locker. the carpet does not snag. There will be a few ragged ends, that I just melted away with a bbq lighter. i put my drain pumps behind the wall, you want drain pumps at the stern end of the sac or you will alot more water in them. Also I had modify my holes a few times because you need to center the hole based on how the sac fills when it is at the top of the compartment not just the halfway point at the bottom edge as the side walls taper as they go down.

[chpthril]

Mike...with the new sac I'll have shortly. You mentioned that I'll need to re-route my supply line to the rear of the locker (as it's now in the front of the locker). In doing this, I will have to drill a hole in either the floor or the panel that separates the engine from the locker (which would seem easier). Does that sound right? Also, how do you drill those in the walls and floor with carpet on them...doesn't the hole saw "snag" on the carpet?

The basic concept is as fallows: pull the tank's vent/overflow hose from the tank and move it to a top fitting on the sac. Run a hose from the bottom fitting of the sac down to the tank's vent fitting, which is now vacant. As the tank fills, water will fill the sac through the tanks overflow. When the sac is full, it will purge out the vent thru-hull just as the tank did originally. As the tank empties, water will flow from the sac's lower fitting into the tank. Now, this is how the water needs to flow, but that dont mean the hoses can be relocated that easy :p

Cutting out a circle with a razor knife before drilling helps. If the carpet is glued really good, the holesaw will just cut right through.

David,

We can take a look at our boat at the reunion and get some ideas.

When the carpet "snags" on the hole saw, then Mike pulls out the sabre saw!

Good thing that worked, the Saws-All was next, then the acetylene torch :ro:

[Guapo]

The basic concept is as fallows: pull the tank's vent/overflow hose from the tank and move it to a top fitting on the sac. Run a hose from the bottom fitting of the sac down to the tank's vent fitting, which is now vacant. As the tank fills, water will fill the sac through the tanks overflow. When the sac is full, it will purge out the vent thru-hull just as the tank did originally. As the tank empties, water will flow from the sac's lower fitting into the tank. Now, this is how the water needs to flow, but that dont mean the hoses can be relocated that easy :p

Cutting out a circle with a razor knife before drilling helps. If the carpet is glued really good, the holesaw will just cut right through.



Good thing that worked, the Saws-All was next, then the acetylene torch :ro:

I already have separate system plumbed in for the 450# sacs I added last year. See the pics below. I think all I need to do is move the fill/drain line (reversible pumps) to the rear of the locker from the front...which will require cutting a hole in the carpeted wall. Does that make sense or am I messed up? :o

http://gallery.me.com/hussungdc/100122/IMG_4895/web.jpg?ver=12487553890001

http://gallery.me.com/hussungdc/100122/IMG_0323/web.jpg?ver=12487554700001

http://gallery.me.com/hussungdc/100122/IMG_4900/web.jpg?ver=12487554370001

http://gallery.me.com/hussungdc/100122/IMG_4894/web.jpg?ver=12487553800001

[chpthril]

Gotcha! I remember now that mention it that you had pumps put in. So yes, you current sacs fill will need to be moved around so it pops out the back wall of the storage so it connects with the custom sac's fill/drain. Your current sac's vent will probably lay right into place on the new sac.

[majestic]

Gotcha! I remember now that mention it that you had pumps put in. So yes, you current sacs fill will need to be moved around so it pops out the back wall of the storage so it connects with the custom sac's fill/drain. Your current sac's vent will probably lay right into place on the new sac.

Make sure before you drill that hole you look on the back side for the reinforcing strip that is screwed to the floor. The bottom of your hole will have to be up 1" or so to clear it. When I had the 3/4 inch hose I used a 1-1/8 paddle bit. When I switched to 1" I used 1-1/4 hole saw.

[Guapo]

Thanks...that's great info to have...I think the hoses are 1"...but I'll have to check.